Tueday 16th June.

What a boring title. Another relatively cruisey day by comparison.

I forgot to mention about the suitcase. That is literally two new suitcases we have purchased to take home gifts and shopping. Plus we have filled our suitcase (which left Australia only half full) and the kids' suitcase has had 2 1/2 packs of nappies removed from it.

Which gets me unusually onto the money topic. The trigger was remembering nappies. We had to buy a new pack, which, after scanning Wellcome's shelves (we went there to buy booze for Australia and some lollies for taking home, as well), led us to buy the local brand of whatever nappies with chinese writing and cow pictures on the bum. The reason is that huggies brand, was over $250 HKD! That is about $50 AUD. For a pack of 32 mid size nappies. To put into perspective, the same pack of nappies costs around $18 in Australia. If you get Aldi brand (Which are literally the best nappies on the market anyway), you pay $18 and get double the quantity.

Milk - like I said $3 a litre for Aussie UHT. So for a family that goes through, minimum, 1L a day, it isn't real cheap. Bread, $1.30 for a 1/3 of a loaf we'd get in Australia. The noodles (the add boiled water, seasoning, etc and soak for 3 minutes variety), are probably no cheaper than Australia. The brands we pay $1.30 for at Aspley Spice Mart are about the equivalent of that in HK. The variety is much the same too.

So whilst bottled water, alcohol of all varieties (except wine) and soft drink are cheap, as is eating out, with a minor amount of conservatism in selection - some basic staples aren't very cheap. Fruit and Veg seems to be rather expensive as well.

Anywho, I digress.

We went to the first place we went here for breakfast, again. Just because it kind of helped us out to realise that we weren't in the worst place on earth. Plus it is blinking cheap and the food is good. We ended up getting some nice noodle and pork soup (Jovia's was tender pork ribs and mine was pork and preserved vegetables), sandwiches for the kids, and iced tea, coffee (the coffee mentioned in the previous post that sent me skitzoid) and a frappe like thing of strawberry, garnished with pineapple pieces. Cost about $14 or $15 AU, which is great.

I don't think they'll want us back. Esther was crying constantly and whingeing and Sonali chucked a hooer screeching tantrum. I could have strangled her and shipped back the corpse duty free. Sometimes kids are just being kids and sometimes, they are being little poos, just to make your life miserable. She and Esther were in that mood yesterday.

We ended up wandering around the dragon centre for the hell of it. Plus Jovia wanted to find some shoes for Olivia.

Actually Jovia got her nails done. Not interesting for us blokes, but basically they bogged the existing nail, rather than glue acrylic onto it (meaning less chemicals for starters, plus it doesn't weaken the existing nail), and then had it painted nicely. Looks good, and took an hour. I used the time to take the kids to 7-11 and buy drinks and snacks, went to the ATM, the game parlour (they are gay here, sorry, 50 themed money trays are still gay money trays, whatever movie you put on it). Olivia chucked a spazzy in the toilet and distressed her sisters - you get the theme on that?

Actually, we went to Wellcome and picked up a bundle of booze up to our duty limit. I reckon we wouldn't have gotten it as cheap duty free, and since we were in HK, we got generally Asian varieties of booze, rather than bring in 4.5L of Johnny walker red, which no-one likes anyway.

The laptop battery is going to conk out, so I'll leave it at that. Will finish tuesday on what we ate, plus the computer arcade. And some photos of what we took.

More soon!

This catchup is getting silly

I am beginning to forget what we are doing.

I do know that I can't wait to get home for the weather. The humidity and heat are Brisbane-esque and starting to really affect us. The problem is that the toilets are never easy to find here, and so one doesn't drink too much to avoid having to suddenly find a toilet (even harder with kids). Trouble is, one ends up with a headache from dehydration.

And I would commit high treason for a decent coffee. Apparently Nescafe is brewed coffee. I had one yesterday and went skitz.

We actually didn't do too much on Monday initially. I've gone through the times being all different here, so we used the time to sleep, launder (clothes, not money) and give our feet a break.

But around 5pm we headed to the Temple Street Night Markets. I think we weren't in much mood for bargaining, which either made us better bargainers (because we just didn't tolerate much) or worse (couldn't be bothered fighting). We ended up doing extra shopping for gifts and I got a couple of shirts.

We went for food at a local restaurant (I use the term in much the same way as KFC or McD's is used - you sit down and have food, rather than in the Ciao Baby sense). The food was great, and cost us 2/3rd of nothing - actually we had a meal for the 4 of us and drinks (non-alcky), for about $28 AU - it wouldn't matter if you substituted alcoholic drinks for the non-alcoholic variety, it is much the same in price. In fact my favourite Munchenal Lager is on special at 7-11 for HK$10.50 for two 500ml cans - that works out at less than $1 AU per can. It is even Cheaper than export (green label) Tsingtao at the moment - make sense of that why don't you.

About 6:30pm when we had just started, it started to rain. Really belt down - a real typical tropical summer downpour. Trouble is, Jovia needed to go to the toilet. We knew where the toilet was (a couple of blocks away), and we were perched under a ledge, and the kids were carrying on (Esther especially). So Jovia took one umbrella, and the pram had the other (Olivia sat on Sonali's lap - the pram has been good, apart from accessibility issues), so I got satched.

We wandered through the markets a couple of times on the Temple Street area, whilst not going near Woosung Street. We ended up buying another suitcase (to put the rest of our shopping in) for around $22 AU, which wasn't bad. If it lasts the trip home, it has done its task of getting our stuff home. Some more souvenir-type items, but we weren't into it as much.

I think the thing you have to realise about Hong Kong is - there is a dense population and lots of people in your personal space all the time. It is a place that stimulates to the extreme, especially aurally and visually. It is kind of like being schizophrenic - sometimes you want all the noise to stop. With the kids being a tourist attraction (for the locals that is) in their own right, the problem is exacerbated considerably. Don't get me wrong, it is exciting, but man alive it is so intense, all the time.

We wandered back to Nathan road about 10ish, had some dim sum and soup, which cost us about $18 AU with drinks and caught a taxi home.

Again, I can't say enough about the taxis. They are cheap, and a good way to see things (well sightsee at speed), that you won't get the time to see otherwise, especially when you go from different places or they take a different initial route. The thing that has helped enormously, is being able to say the cantonese word for "street" and "road", and getting a better idea (or at least attempting) of how to pronounce the Chinese street names correctly. Now, I have no trouble with them knowing the name of the suburb, the name of the streets and the connecting streets there, even if I have to help them with directions.

Another riveting chapter written. Sorry, we are so tired, that we are taking things easier than we have. I'm glad we aren't in Tsim Sha Tsui, I think the stimulation would be worse. At least in the sticks, it is a little easier.

Photos - sorry none. We took photos of the markets, and the camera was out of batteries. We bought some more at the market, but the rain made it impossible to take photos.

Sunday, Ocean Park et al

Hiyawl, catchup almost done again. We are having another cruisy day, which we need, we are exhausted.

We went to Ocean Park yesterday, finally. The weather has been overcast, but didn't rain much during the day.

You can see why our book said Ocean Park was the locals' haunt, rather than Disneyland. It has replayibility. It had far less westerners than Disneyland, and some of the signs were in very slightly fractured Engrish and not all the staff spoke adequate English. Having said that, since Disneyland I've learned some numbers, thank you and "yes, three kids", it is a bit easier to get what we need.

It's situated on the Southside of HK Island at a suburb called Aberdeen and is split up into two parts - the Lowlands and the Headland. These two parts are separated by a thumping great Mountain (with a dragon head manicured from the trees in it, which you can see from miles away). There are two ways to get there - Shuttle bus between the two entrances (the Lowland and Highland ones) or cable car.

We took a taxi in, which cost all of about $22 AU, including the tolls for the cross harbour tunnel (much like our CLEM7 opening up) and the tunnel through to the southside of HK Island. After the poofight with walking to public transport and getting the kids, pram, etc on it - we saved our legs and stress. Plus you have to get the train into Central on HK Island, transfer to a connecting train to Admirality and then get out of the station and onto a bus to the park.

Given HK isn't particularly wheelchair or stroller friendly at all (stairs everywhere and few lifts), it wasn't worth it. And realistically, we spend about $6 AU just to get to the bus stop, plus whatever the bus cost, we would have saved, maybe $7 or $8 AU, and added too much tiring and stressful travel.

At the park, it was easy to get in on the lowlands. The cost was 50% less per person than Disneyland and the park was generally more compact. We also had a voucher we got at Wellcome (30% off one ticket - obviously aimed at locals, but since we have been picking up supplies there, we go it).

The lowlands is the kiddie rides and most of the wildlife related stuff, including Pandas, which are incredible. Some in one exhibit were sleeping and the other was wandering a little and then going away. We got some photos, though the glass made them hazy. It was still worth it to see them. We also went and saw some other animals, though many we couldn't see (must have been the weather). I made a joke to a Pom about the Chinese Salamander not being there because he was in the cafe as lunch instead.

There is also a goldfish exhibit there - there are 300 different types of goldfish! We also saw an acrobatics show, which we took some video of, which was very impressive. Like a Twenty/20 version of cirque de soleil.

As usual, the park prices were an issue. Coke and Water (of which we purchased plenty due to the weather) was 4 times what we pay in the suburbs, though we had hindsight to get some snacks and water and poppers to save time (so we saved by going to Wellcome and then we saved again by getting a cheaper ticket).

But because it is a not-for-profit conservation organisation that runs it, I don't mind so bad. And it was still cheaper than Disneyland.

We ended up going to Panda Cafe, and getting lunch there, which cost around $40 AU for a family (including a coke, water and Carlsberg), which is fairly good for decent food and at a theme park. The food was another reason you know they are catering to locals - it was the local fare, not western food (though you could get McDonalds at the other side of the park - no way, as we had Delhi Belly once from it - the only stomach ache has been from McD!).

So Jovia got Beef Brisket, veges and noodles (thick rice ones, which were like slippery clear spaghetti), I got BBQ Pork and Roast Duck with rice (which had a nice sauce in it), and we shared some pork dim sum and pork buns as well. We kinda did an all in share. We couldn't eat it all, there was so much - but it was really good food.

After going to the gift shop, we went on the Cable Car, which was really cool. The kids were fascinated by it, though Jovia was scared (mum would be too - it was really high). At the end, Sonali goes "it's only one more bump mummy and we'll be there". But the view was fantastic, and you could see the whole harbour, mountain, boats and everything from it. I'll post a couple of photos, but I took about 20 or 30, it was just incredible. They had stairs underneath and it was like one of those south american ziggurats, just a massive climb - you wonder how anyone could have climbed it, let alone was the distance to the headland.

The headland area had some good rides, though I only managed three, the bigger rollercoaster, the space wheel (like a faster Enterprise at Dreamworld) and the river rapids (the water was cleaner than Dreamworld's or Seaworld's). The problem with the park, especially the headland, is that it was poorly laid out (the map was inaccurate and misleading), and not wheelchair/pram accessible. Just to get to the exit on the Headland required us to take 3 very steep, long escalators down the hill, which is scary holding a pram, because if I'd slipped, it would have damaged a lot of people.

It is absolutely a park for able bodied people only. I wish I'd got to do all the thrill rides, as they were impressive looking. The rollercoaster I did go on was great - it had two loops like the corkscrew and a part where the car was upside down. A lot of sideways bends - just a lot of fun. The river rapids were great, and the drop got me very wet. The space wheel was so fast that it became a bit of a gravitron. If you wanted to go, you'd do it in a group where the people who wanted sedate rides and shows could go to the lower area, and those who wanted rides the top area.

We got a bit of attention at the park, though only one photo request, which was good. I can't wait to go back to where we appear as just another family of locals, rather than strange westerners with a blonde kid.

We'd decided that we'd try to get back to Tsim Sha Tsui for dinner and see if we had time for the symphony of lights on HK Harbour. We took a taxi in to TST - almost the eastern side, which is very nice - it has a street much like a beach street or the stretch along brisbane river at Hamilton. We ended up going to outback steakhouse, as we were well underdressed for another different steakhouse. I was trying to convince Jovia to go to the Martini place, but again, we were probably underdressed.

The food was brilliant, the dinner menu is far better - I got a massive rack of ribs and cheese fries (yum!) - I had credit because I pushed the pram up some extremely steep long hills at Ocean Park, Jovia got a rib fillet steak and the kids a kids meal each. Add in cokes and Stella on tap and it was our most expensive meal, but we needed some energy food.

We went and had a look at the harbour lights which were really nice, but we were on the the wrong side of the peninsula to get any view of the symphony of lights, more is the pity.

We got a taxi back, I caught up the blog and crashed. I finally figured out a level on my DS game (can't find a DSi card - it seems like the DSi hasn't been released here yet?). If Whitney's DS still worked, I'd buy a bundle of cute accessories and a nice case.

Photos:

1. View of the Peak on HK Island covered in cloud - looking from TST.

2. Part of the view from the Cable car to some of the harbour - it's higher than it looks!

3. View straight ahead from the Cable Car - actually those steps are about 60 degrees steep, but the photo makes them look flat.

4. View of dragon on mountain in the distance - you'll need to look at the full sized photo and zoom a little to see it - it even has a red eye.

5. Cross harbour tunnel entrance from TST to HKI.

Saturday - not much happening

Saturday, we ended up not doing a great deal.

After breakfasting at a place in the dragon centre, we had no idea what to do.

The breakfast was adequate, though my main, I was underwhelmed with - and the marrow was reddish (even though the chicken was white), so I left, just in case the law against blood wasn't quite kept (though, in my head, I think that the meat was more than adequately bled). My Satay malaysian was beautiful. Having said that, I think they tried too many cuisines and then were mediocre in all, but I can live with that. As a family man, I can live with paying not too much to feed all peoples.

We were in the Dragon Centre, and couldn't decide whether Ocean Park was an option, so pottered for a minute and then ended up deciding to go back to the ladies market to shop for some extra gifts etc (we asked the kids whom they would like to buy for, and other than family topping the list, older people in our cong were priority, which was heartwarming as to where the friendships lie).

As a side point, Esther has been calling for Mum heaps ("Noni" is a daily exclamation for her) and Sonali has been missing Whitney (in fact, at Disneyland, she got excited, not realising that Winnie the pooh, wasn't Whitney, so she was calling for Whitney a pooh" -cute, hai?).

We ended up in this nice "iced teahouse" in the vicinity of the markets (actually in the side streets). I think it was as close as possible to a "hole in the wall" as we've been and the food was magnificent. I had the nicest non-Indian (and somewhat spicy) curry, dim sum, Jovia has some nice noodles and beef, kids were happy with their chocolate sandwiches, and we had softdrink, beer and iced tea (which was served in a large beer stein!) for under $30 AU. We waddled out.

Pottering around the Ladies market was nice. I wasn't in the mood for bargaining (though I did make one purchase with a hard line of bargainging), but we picked up some bargains and I was happy with the processes. Jovia is a master - she is ruthless and doesn't mind looking like a cow for being so. She is the best bargainer hands down - though I researched it and picked up some really good deals, she is the most consistent buyer and a real good bargainer. It is fun, when one is in the mood.

After feeling like the usual "saam goa" tourist attraction, we headed back here. I can tell you, that figuring out (and I mean that quite literally - I had to pick it up by listening) how to say our street names, area and the Cantonese word for "street" and "road", to get back here, it has made it a bucketload easier.

Get this - I, me, l'il ol' me, directed a local Chinese cab driver to drive from Mong Kok to here, and which streets and left/right/straight to take. I was stoked.

Went to Wellcome (who have a "if you spend $HK150, you get 30% Off a ticket at Ocean Park" deal) to pick up some bits. The local spirits (and Chinese ones), I want to take back for you all, but I am going to end up inebriated, if I try them all out. The labels are basic, but I am sure that the local wines, rice wines, rice spirits and liquers will all be good. But for mum, I want to take back some Plum wine. If the request comes through, I can take back some Korean Ginseng wine as well.

You have lots of photos to see, if you want. Fun as fun could be.

Friday Catchup - yo shortie

Crumbs - it's sunday and I'm catching up friday.

Okey dokey. Friday, we basically had decided that, weather permitting, we would go to Ocean Park. So we decided to catch the MTR into Admiralty (on HK Island) and then the 629 into the park.

We figured out, retrospectively, as one does, that we are sitting betwixt two separate lines. If we go to the Nam Cheong Station, we are on the Orange line and if we go to Sham Shui Po station, we are on another line (light blue I think). So we walked to Nam Cheong and took a line in. It turned out to be one of those fortuitous 50/50 decisions, as the train was less clogged and we ended up where we needed to be anyway, albeit via train swap at central station.

So we ended up off at HK Island at Admiralty and it was pouring down. So upon jettisoning our plans to go to Ocean Park, we thought "let's potter around HK Island". We had no idea where to go, so I decided to get us a taxi (it cost $2 AU or something) to Causeway Bay, because we had a fair bit of our research printouts pointing that way. And decided to go to SOGO and work from there (the area SOGO is in, is nicknamed "Little Japan").

Whilst there were nice things, we were extremely underwhelmed and disappointed. Realistically, there was nothing to recommend it. You could have been in Tokyo, Singapore, Sydney or whatever, and felt the same - there was no life, and the people there were snobby. Whilst it was comforting to be less obvious (rain just started here, sounds great on the roof - the advantage of being on top floor), we were still the family with "saam goa" (three kids), so couldn't disappear.

But underwhelmed was our overall opinion of HK Island. Funnily enough our book said that Tsim Sha Tsui (and almost by extension, the Kowloon Peninsula) was the poorish sister of HK Island, and in another area said that, apart from the markets, it wasn't worth visiting. We found the opposite - TST was worth visiting (Lightning just struck - insert Qld summer to describe weather here) and the food far more reasonable and quite tasty.

So realistically, nothing much to write about friday - extreme disappointment in the more affluent area of Hong Kong, soulless, nothing worth worrying about. We did end up getting Whitney's Japanese favourite crepes (they have a branch here) and some lovely dim sum and food in a restaurant, though we paid for the privelege and the view (which was incredible). Don't get me wrong, there are some pretty impressive looking bits, but if you are looking for cheap (or even cheaper) shopping, don't go there. And as a rule, people are rude. The one upside is that one person at Admiralty station (which isn't quite as upmarket as Causeway Bay), helped carry our pram up 2 flights of stairs, for which we are eternally grateful.

But, after making a comment about this place having soul and feeling human, despite its obvious physical imperfections and then having the comparitive physical perfection but the lack of soul, we have become eternally grateful for the fact that we, by lucky chance, landed in Sham Shui Po. The people here and the place will be something in our hearts forever.

Mum (if reading this at all) - it is like your comment about Tokyo vs Hokkaido. In Hokkaido, you could barely converse with the people (because away from the main areas, people spoke no Engrish), but were extremely friendly and kind and real. And in Tokyo, it was fancy and nice, but the materialism and meh factor was there. All in all, I'll take the imperfections and genuine chinks over anything on HK Island. Irony being that we get more overt attention in the more affluent places, despite them seeing more westerners and her, people are more reserved with their affections, but happy to have a sign language and basic bilingual conversation.

Sham Shui Po is the most fortunate aspect of our trip. Despite everything, I love it here and I'm sure I'll get the same response from the family.

Love you all heaps, and will show videos (including, just for Deanie, Karaoke of Ricky Martin - many laughs to be had!)

Loud thunder and bright lightning - we have a reason for putting up with the heat.

Photos:

1. Jovia's crepe/cone - this is a Japanese import, popular in Little Japan. It was beautiful, I had some (hey, it's me, of course I did).

2. Coke advertising, live screens with some local idol Chinese girl on it. Visually impressive!!

3. Photo of signs to the station of Mong Kok. He he he.

4. Photo of the MTR at Nam Cheong - bare by comparison. In the other stations you are swimming in people, and kind of feel like this biological mass of humanity. At the quieter station, you can actually get onto a train on the first attempt and aren't pressed up against the doors.

5. The park ways outside Nam Cheong estate - I swear the only green area in HK or Kowloon. We are fortunate in Brisbane, we have really do a fairly good job of trying to maintain some sort of greenery (again, a reason I hate the uppity nature of people saying "oh, we are backward" - progress breeds pollution in most instances and getting a clear view with less pollution and greenery in a city - darnit I am thankful).

Thursday catch up

Actually, this shouldn't be too hard to write, though it does require an addendum to Wednesday.

Between lunner (late lunch/early dinner) and leaving, we went to a dessert place called Lucky Dessert. It was beautiful inside, really nice and we had this girl want photos (fairly normal) of the kids, particularly Sonali. We ordered this strawberry pudding, mango roll thing covered in dessicated coconut and a durian pastry. The first two were exquisite, and something you'd expect the Japanese to produce presentation wise. The third was awful.

You ever go through Chinatown and have this horrible smell like rotting fruit and garlic? And you think "This place is a grotbox place, because it smells like rotting fruit and garlic"? That smell is Durian. And it tastes like rotten custard apple crossed with stringy mango in texture, garlic and rotten banana in flavour. You ever see a combination of flavours and think "that is so wrong"? That is durian. Simply the worst thing grown out of the ground. The pastry was beautiful, but the durian was so awful and no amount of powdered sugar on top (and there was an abundance of it) could make it edible. Even sonali hated it, so that shows how really awful it is.

Thursday, we ended up deciding to go to another local mall we saw on the way to Kowloon proper. It actually works out to be closer than Golden Palace, and it is pretty new - I'd say it's only been built in the last 4 or 5 years. We had breakky (a fairly western affair of steak, pasta and ribs - though we make them significantly better in Oz), but it still only cost about $30 Australian (I can't leave Hamish's with change from $50 and he is the cheapest by miles.

We pottered around the shops. They have this shop called Citistore, which is pretty well a upmarket Myer style store. We saw tons of hello kitty stuff, japanese stuff (The HK Chinese are big Japanophiles), remote control cars and just junk really. Nothing cheap, but not expensive either by our standards. Again, the good exchange rate is probably the cause of it.

We bought this card game called Monopoly deal. Jovia and I have been pretty well playing it nonstop whenever we are in the suite. It's loosely based on monopoly and is a bit uno like - about 80% chance and 20% hedging so that if chance fails you don't get slaughtered. All the locations on the cards are here, so the yellow card for Sham Shui Po is like a "yay!" card.

Told you we did very little, hey?

But I had a thought, especially after wandering around wednesday night, that I've avoided taking too many photos of lots of Sham Shui Po, probably out of a fair bit of snobbery. And I said that on the way back. But the fact is that there is life and everything spilling out on these streets, people being people, business, stuff, and everyone is smelly. And yeah, the buildings are grotty on the outside, but we have a housekeeper here everyday mopping floors, taking rubbish, vaccuuming, cleaning, the whole lot. There are plastic covers that are sterislised on every lift button, sign, door, handle, whatever. They are OCD about it. But the life, the area, and the people aren't sterilised. I appreciate the lack of pretentiousness. This comment would prove strangely prophetic, once again.

The weather has been wreaking havoc with our plans. Basically insert a Brisbane summer - Thundery Showers and patches of heavy rain, and then it's clear, but not for long, and you are having to take cover again.

We had dinner at Watei in the Golden Palace again. I had the same meal - a rice combo with beef and kimchi (yum!), Jovia had a beef & rice thing and the kids a ramen combo. Had a couple of plum liquers on the rocks (and they fill the glass up well) and then pottered around the shops before heading back.

We'd decided to go to Ocean Park, weather permitting on Friday.

Photos:

1. The box from the cake shop in the shopping centre near here we went to.

2. A view of lights from Golden Dragon

3. Strawberry pudding from Happy Dessert.

Not on time.....again

That lasted long - not!!! I'm not on time, but that's life. Actually, since no comments were posted on the last entry, it probably isn't as big a deal as I thought (or maybe there isn't anything to write in comments, as except "hello, hope you are well" - I was like that with Steven's blog - I was hanging for each entry (bet you'd never thought that hey?), but actually had nothing of note to write myself), but I think I need to get some of the last few days down in writing, as some of it will disappear from memory, once I'm back in oz.

Again, I think that a day or two's grace, and some newer experiences are likely to make my opinions even more subjective (or introspective and possibly wordy, my apologies in advance).

Okey Dokey - I wrote about tuesday, and today is friday, so it must be Wednesday I was up to, right?

Wednesday was "Ladies market day". The ladies market is in Mong Kok (ha ha ha ha ha ha ha, okay, not funny anymore - well actually it is - I still laugh everytime I see/say it (or Fook Chan Street)), which meant that Taxi was worth the whole $4-5 AU or whatever the hell we paid. We had decided that we would buy Octopus cards when we got here, but taxis are so cheap (which I think has more to do with the strong AUD, than them being any cheaper on a proportionate level to the cost of living here).

The ladies market is in Tung Choi Street, as opposed to the Temple Street Night Markets (which were once the "Men's Market), but all markets are no longer sexist and a variety of fashions for all genders are there, plus other usual stuff. Actually, despite being considerably smaller than the Temple Street Night Markets, it is (again, subjectively), the better of the two.

I think the reason I say this, is that there is just less junk there and more clothing. So much so, that we managed to fill our new suitcase, we picked up the other day at Temple Street.

We are thoroughly thankful that our main suitcase left Australia only half full, and with the 3 packs of nappies we left Oz with, now halved, we will have some space. Having said that, we have one more suitcase's worth of baggage we are allowed on the flight, so we may end up back at Temple Street, just to pick up another "Genuine Copy" Polo suitcase.

I have to say, that the bargaining at this market is considerably more aggressive than Temple St. The sellers are less likely to budge lower than their price, but (again in retrospect), are more aggressive with trying to sell you something, so long as you are in their price range. Again, in retrospect, it is worth being super aggressive as a buyer, because they play poker, but in one fashion, so once the tricks are figured out, it is fairly predictable.

I also didn't do us a favour at one stage, because I went to the ATM to get money out. Trouble is the ATM gave me HK$500 notes (probably the equivalent to our $100 notes - I'd never seen one beforehand). One seller saw it when I went to pay a stallholder next door, and was firm as firm could be. Jovia got irritated, and I just said to her "it's what the ATM spat out - I cannot help it". Generally, I had been going with a couple of smaller notes in the top part of my traveller's wallet, and the balance in the lower part (deeper down).

The aggression - I can illustrate. I had a lady with men's clothing and I saw two shirts (together, almost a set, but two items that can be worn separate). Lady says "Special for you - normally $210, I do $190." I said "No way, $100", she says "$160", I say "No, $100", "$150", "No, sorry" shake head and start walking. She pulls my shirt "okay, okay $140", "no, sorry" - continue walking. "$130", "no, sorry", keep walking. "you hurting me, okay $120" and I say "$110, I give you, and you have your sale, or no". "Okay, $110". So I got them for $110, which at current exchange rates, gives me two shirts for less than $20 AU. The lady's assistant/friend says something in Cantonese, and the lady replies "hai, [words in Cantonese], he did good".

Jovia did some bargaining, when I was trying to get my notage sorted, and the stall holder was very unhappy with her.

Whereas, once I'd sorted it out, another stall holder, shook Jovia's hand and said she did very well at bargaining.

I also realised after Tuesday's post, that we'd taken few photos (especially meaningful ones) that day, so wanted to ramp things up. The say is "a picture tells a thousand words", and I can describe (probably poorly) how things are, but the photos will do better. I'll leave a footnote/addendum to say which photos are which.

Another good thing, is that the aisles between the stalls on the left and right are wide enough to get a pram through. In a place that doesn't seem to make life with prams/wheelchairs easier, it's a fair concession for us.

And because it is clothing and decent souvenir related - you don't get miles of junk and adult products being displayed in the open.

Another great thing, is that it starts at 12:30 and goes until around 9pm, rather than 4-11pm, which the temple street ones do. This means we don't sit around here twiddling our thumbs for a day, before going out.

But I feel sorry for Jovia. The clothes are made for women a good foot shorter than her - even the chubby ones are short, so nothing is long enough. We picked up a couple of dresses, that she can use as summer skirts (long at least). Tops, bras and pants - forget it. It's funny - there are quite a number of chubby chinese (there is no physical things to do here, other than walking), but no "big" clothing.

We ended up having lunch in a Japanese place we found in a side alley. Easily the best Japanese curry I've ever had, and I shared some of the potato with esther who was enthusiastic about it. Again, fed a family of 5 for around $30 AU, including drinks. It's pretty random what we eat outside Sham Shui Po, it's firstly "can we get the pram in" and secondly "are the prices reasonable". Once that complex criteria is met, we go in.

I'm finding another thing, other than a decent price, that is helpful. Generally, with the local food, especially the local cantonese staples - we are only eating 2 meals a day and drinking water/iced tea/coke/beer for the balance of the time. Considering that we are doing so much walking (therefore using the energy we put in) and the fact that we aren't hungry for a lengthy period afterwards, until we want the next feed, is impressive. Our bodies seem to also be no longer hungry in the morning, until around 11am (acclimatisation?), so a cup of tea (and a bowl of cereal for the girls) does the trick, until we are ready to have brunch.

The annoyances? The amount of staring and the fact that everybody wants to 1. Stop us to ask us about the girls, and/or 2. Take photos, and/or 3. Have a hug.

Steven made a comment about being a celebrity - we literally feel like it. We get swamped, especially in the markets.

The irony is, that they see more westerners in the market, than the Sham Shui Po locals do, yet we get more overt attention there. It cost us a bag with a dress in it (nicked/dropped/left behind? Don't know).

And if I had a dollar for everytime I've said "Hai, saam goa" (yes three kids), I'd have paid for this trip. Having said that the locals appreciate that I've figured out, and can at least, in broken cantonese, tell them that I have three kids, their order and their ages.

We did have a laugh, with a group of women who asked us (I can't remember how, with our non-existent cantonese and their equal amount of English) whether we wanted 4, a boy or had enough. They laughed at the fact that we were adament that we were having no more, and the fact that I managed to express that with a couple of Cantonese words and some fairly firm hand signals.

We finished up at the markets and ended up back here, via return taxi at around 7pm. So the girls had an early night. Jovia was playing DS (I downloaded Jewel Quest and a crosswords game) and I was updating Tuesday's blog. She felt peckish around 10pm, so I ducked out by myself to get her something (and my carbohydrate intake ;) as well). I wish I'd taken out the camera - it was just such a fascinating insight into the lives of people here. Absolutely incredible. Even then I don't think I could explain it all, or even that the photos could.

I've mentioned that nothing gets going until the middle of the day and everyone keeps going until almost midnight in some instances. To be honest - I think it is their way of dealing with the same problem in Brisbane summer. It is too hot to do anything in daylight, so doing it when it is cooler works better. In Brisbane, we do it in the wee hours of the morning (joggers at 4am in summer?), here people work at late hours doing things.

There were side streets (Pei Ho Street, Kwelin Street, Yee Kuk Street, Hai Tan Street), where people were unloading whitegoods, organising their shops/stalls, sorting out metals/recycling, buying/selling, making food - whatever. It was just this busy place where people were just being human beings in their own cultural way.

The other thing that has to be said. HK Chinese will sell/do anything, so long as they have a piece of concrete to do it (if it rains, they deal with that at the time - makeshift rooves and coverings are in vogue too). The buildings are all apartment blocks, with a rollerdoor at the bottom, which are all converted into shops. Those shops spill out onto the pavement, and then there are people having impromptu "markets" on the sidewalk, probably rent free. So the taxis/traffic are having to divert around all this junk (especially in the side streets). And people unloading goods (probably from the back of a truck - literally), selling things, conversing and doing their work on the sidewalk. If it was Australia, it would be a litigation (and governmental) nightmare, but here, people either don't have rules, or ignore them (I'm not sure which and in what proportions.

I ended up wandering around for a while - primarily because 1. I had to be able to honestly tell Jovia that the place I got her food from was anally hygenic and 2. Because nothing on any shop's menu was in English.

You see, Sham Shui Po, isn't a place that gets many Westerners. We have seen I think 2 or 3 lots, in the entire time we've been here. We saw some on the first day (when we'd got to the Golden Dragon Centre and figured out where to eat) - a German (with wife and one kid), who was as overwhelmed as us and just happy to ask an opinion in a language he and his wife understood "where to eat". And one lot in this hotel.

Our hotel is basically the only one in Sham Shui Po and the neighbouring suburbs. Most hotels are in Tsim Sha Tsui (in Kowloon Municipality) or on HK Island (Disneyland Hotels excepted). You do see Westerners there (more on that in another post). So we are 1. an anomale and 2. not able to communicate in English, since the locals have no need to understand it.

The hotel staff here are, in my opinion to date, the only people who can speak a sentence in English. Their English is quite good actually. But this hotel isn't a haunt for English speaking tourists, as a rule. It is generally Chinese from the mainland (presumably southern Cantonese speaking areas), or Chinese speaking business people who tend to come here. So when we come, and the occasional tourist, it is just an anomale - a blip.

Having said that, as a side point, they have given us a photocopy map with some places written on it in English, which I'd happily frame, when we get back to Australia, such as its usefulness has been.

Anywho, back to the story. I was looking around for a place to get something, and finally went to an eat-out below "Mr Beef Seafood Restaurant". Got to the front counter, and asked the gent if he speaks English. Stupid question, let's move on. Tried to ask whether they do takeaway. He had no idea was I was talking about and we ended up politely uncomfortable. He then calls out into this eat out (like a local haunt) if anyone can understand me. So a gent (customer) gets up and says "yes". He asks me (he was a bit of a smug git, but helpful. He says "are you dirty?" and then tells it to the bloke behind the counter) what I want. I ask firstly do they do takeaway. Yes. He asks, "But what would you want to eat". I said (under clear instructions) "Something with beef (braised preferably), noodles, veges and broth". He tells the guy and then the guys says "it's $23" in Cantonese, the guy goes to translate and I say "I got the amount", hand him the cash and thank the guy profusely for his help.

That afforded me time to sit down and people watch. This place was certainly nothing fancy, but the clientele were mostly loyal customers, judging by how much they joked with the waitresses (a couple of chubby 40ish women and a younger, ugly girl of around 30). People sitting around chatting in groups, eating, smoking (they were not adhering to the law, which stipultes a penalty of HK$5000 (around $850-$1000 AU) for smoking indoors in a public place). A couple of older men (5o's), sitting outside at a 2 person table - looking like they'd been mates for years, eating, having a smoke, drinking a bottle of beer together.

As another side point, I mentioned that HK Chinese don't drink much. Generally when a 640ml bottle (usually Tsintao or some other brewed under licence beer) is ordered, two glasses of a 200ml or so capacity (small glasses indeed) are sent out as a matter of course.

It was just so human, and such an insight into life, normal people, with normal relationships, in their community, being human beings. It was lovely to watch.

I went home via 7-o's, got a couple of cans of beer, and headed back to the suite.

Jovia was chuffed with her meal (I ended up "having" to help her, as it was way too much), and at a price of HK$23 (around $4 AU at current exchange rates), pretty good value.

Anywho, I was going to catch it up to today (Friday), but now that Friday has become Saturday, you'll have to suffice with just Wednesday. At least the post is detailed (or boring and wordy).

Love you all heaps, and miss you and can't wait to see you once again and give you lots of hugs. If mum doesn't read this, give her an extra big hug from me.

Appendix for photos:

1. Me and Jovia - Olivia took this photo

2. An Engrish-funny - actually, very few Engrish funnies are around, everything is generally written correctly - Tshirts being a noteable exception - these are hilarious.

3. Picture of Ladies market - daylight - yay!

4. Picture of a side behind the markets - we found our restaurant down this further up.

My first on-time entry

Hi yawl, thanks for all the words of support. Love you all and miss you heaps.

Since it is not quite midnight here (though a tad before 2am for you guys), I'm on time with starting this one for Tuesday. The kids have only been in bed for less than an hour, so hopefully that will have the effect of getting everyone sleepy enough to not want to do anything tomorrow morning, but functioning adequately in the early afternoon.

Today, first off we headed back to the Golden Dragon Mall for brunch again (same issue as before, there are like 3 places open before 11:30am). We had a meal at a different one, which included 12 dumplings (basically gyoza style), a bowl of rice and pork and veges for me, a bowl of noodle soup, veges and beef brisket for Jovia, two toasted sandwiches for the girls and 3 iced teas (some of the best we've tasted - better than the taiwanese style). I think it cost us a little more (around $30 AUD), but we ate considerably more (again, didn't need to eat until dinner, which was around 10pm, with the exception of bowl noodle we picked up from Wellcome).

We poked around the mall (we'd actually not done that much - just went there to eat), and looked at the "apple mall" on Level 5. It is like all these tiny hole in the wall shops doing everything from nails and hair to selling lego and bras (of course a "big" bra is a B cup here).

It belted down rain, so we really hung around, until it cleared a little and headed back. I finally got Jovia to buy herself a pair of sandal-like thongs, because her poor feet are bruised in certain areas, and I was annoyed with her (in a caring manner), for not looking after her feet better (and annoyed in a not so caring manner for the whining it caused). They are like Jelly on the bottom and seemed to have helped a bit.

After going to Wellcome (which included the purchase of the picture of 1L of Asahi, I'm about to post) and getting some poppers, food for breakkie (since we are struggling to purchase food before 9am) and snacks for going places with, among other things and seeing the rain had reduced, we headed back. Via 7-Eleven and the usual $4 AU worth of drinks (non alcoholic).

We hung around here for a while and left a little before six pm to tackle the Temple Street night markets again. I'd realised, upon reading my guidebook again, that it had the night markets in a different location to the local tourist map from our reception. I asked the girl Joey in reception about it, and apparently the whole thing is - my map book had it in Yau Ma Tei, and the tourist map, in Jordan - the whole thing was a market precinct.

We got a taxi in, which was great, because the driver spoke reasonable English and understood Jovia and my conversation enough to recommend where to start from and work to, and so he dropped us off in what he considered the ideal location.

How right he was. Because we went all the way to the end (another block) and realised that it wasn't the best place to take young kids (or innocent adult eyes, either). So we departed fairly hastily from the far northern end of the market (which I rather succinctly renamed "dildo alley") and back into the market proper. From there I read the kids the riot act (which did squat, they were monstrous) and we looked around.

There are plenty of bargains to be had, and one can acquire all sorts of things of varying usefulness. Having said the knock-offs - as a rule, are of very good quality. The other good thing is, although it can be frustrating seeing a third stall with the same stuff again, it does give one bargaining power.

Which brings me onto bargaining. Yesterday I got caught, and didn't bargain hard enough, and was the object of some derision from my wife. I still didn't pay much for what I had, but I did have someone try to play the sympathy card on me, and so paid more that I could have. Jovia is a nasty so-and-so to bargain with, but it can get her unstuck at times, because she does come across rude occasionally. So we figured out by the end of yesterday's trip that playing 'good cop, bad cop', seems to work.

You see, bargaining is all a sport - so long as you play the rules, it's all fair. The shop keeper might try to play the "you're twisting my arm and it hurts" card, so you may have to play the "I'll go down the road and buy it cheaper" card.

Or Jovia will say "I really like that", and I'll stand there apathetic, indifferent or even say "No way am I paying $x - do you realize that is $y AU?".

Jovia has a good trick she picked up near the end of tonight, where, after getting them down so far, and they don't want to budge, she says "where does this go on the shelf, I'll put it back for you" and they usually cave. Mine is the sad shake of the head, and "m goi" (thank you) and start to wander off.

Basically, it's like paying poker - you might be holding a pair of twos and bluffing your way out, or you might be holding a flush and trying not to overplay your hand. And sometimes, you need to fold and walk away.

By the time the night was up, we were consistently getting things for half (or less) the original price quoted. I forgot to mention, we bought a suitcase yesterday to actually carry the stuff yesterday (and obviously on the plane home).

There are some things, though I find are missing from the markets - men's jeans (lots of shirts, tshirts and stuff like that), football and sporting jerseys, women's clothing (bras, undies and sleepwear excepted). I think that might be the haunt of the women's market, which we should be hitting tomorrow.

They won't know what hit them, the poor suckers. They'll have these westerners, with bargain skills honed by two days at temple street.

The kids starting getting really awful by the end, so we ended up going into a clean eatery, that invited us in and said that they would find a spot for the pram. The food was fairly average, but a no-brainer, and again, feeding a family of 5 for well less than $20 AU (including a 640ml beer Jovia and I shared). I'm really starting to appreciate Sham Shui Po for the food - we've had our best meals here consisently and paid less than anywhere else. Plus the locals are friendly (if somewhat bewildered, as they don't get many westerners here). There is a hole in the wall dim sum place I want to go to, but it is a poo fight going anywhere with the pram.

Take on board your comment about not eating at "Restaurants". Hard to eat anywhere, where a wide pram won't get into the door. Plus the "food court" culture here is different - they are actually places where the nicer food is served, not the most plastic, like home (and apparently the US as well).

Caught a cab home for well less than $8 AU, which makes it a great investment in our feet, sanity (kids) and getting everything back.

I'll post some pictures of the lights around the streets bordering (and in) the markets. They don't do it justice - the lights and signage is incredible - even in this - a poorer district. These ones are a glimpse, but you'd have to see it to believe it, because, unlike the lights in a western city (like London or NYC) or even Tokyo (if the pictures I've seen tell the story) - these are from the building right over the road and virtually the scaffolding on the signs on one side of the street meet with the scaffolding on the other side - like they are all competing for their piece of sky.

That's about it for today's events, other than the laundry. I will add an addendum to yesterday:

In TST, I've noticed that (and the guides mentioned it) a lot of people try to solicit tourists to sell them "real copy" watches or tailoring. And they are all Indian (southern - the darker variety). And every corner, they approach you.

We started off super polite, and by the time we went to the markets yesterday, we were point blank very short (they are around the major arterials in TST, not in the market areas). There was one guy, I saw his face from a mile off (I got to the point where, if I saw an Indian, I'd already be ready), he saw mine, starting to walk toward me and I just put my hand up, shook my head and then ignored him.

It's hard, because they are taking trade and the like from tailors and stuff who are legit - in shops, charging market rates. Plus there is the possibility of being robbed. The guides say "don't go with anyone who solicits you and don't buy anything from them".

We also had it happen (though not from an Indian), when we got into the airport and a man approached Jovia to offer her a taxi. We had an airport plain clothesman kindly hand us a leaflet in both Chinese and English talking about the dangers of using an unregulated (and illegal) taxi service. They are heavily regulated, and you have the ability to complain easily, if you feel like they haven't treated you well (you get a card written in both Chinese and English with the route's details and number to call). And whilst I wouldn't say all the taxi drivers are the most social people, they are professional, will help you out (including lifting bags in and out of the boot/car) and charge by the book. They also accept tips (round up to the next $10 is the norm according to our guides - they are one of the only people you tip), with gratitude.

Off to bed - way too late, though I can get up late too - nothing is open! The rain has cleared some of the haze, and I can see the suspension bridge over to Tsing Yi (another island) - no more than 1km away.

We aren't going to get a heap done over the next few days - it isn't possible, but we are just experiencing what we are, and not pushing too hard - and exhausting ourselves.

Monday, Monday....

Still playing catchup, though we are just about there.

I forgot to mention that, although everything seems grubby, it is all washed and sanitised where it counts - they employ people wipe elevator buttons, railings, door handles - everything with frequent touching, as well as sanitising carpets (not that there is a lot of carpet - too hot), mats, etc. They are very particular about all that sort of stuff.

Monday, we realised already that nothing gets going before 11-12, so there is no use really getting moving before then. Other 7-Eleven and the occasional breakfast place, everything is closed, which is irritating, because it feels like you waste half the day away, because the kids need to be in bed at a reasonable time. We seem to be getting a limited amount done each day, but I want to explore further and it isn't happening.

So we decided to head into Tsim Sha Tsui (think "ch" like Tsingdao) on the MTR. That basically means walking a few blocks (though stupidly, we noticed that there is one station closer, even though it is in the next suburb and didn't use it. It took a while to find a lift (we gave up), so we ended up closing the pram and carrying the kids down the platform. On the platform, you can use an Octopus card (like Brisbane's go-card), which we haven't purchased, simply because we haven't actually used public transport. We've either been too close, or taxi'd it, because it is too hard to take a family of five plus acutriments anywhere. The guides have been wrong about taxis being expensive (as guides often are), we pay very little.

Having said that, we paid the equivalent of $1.10 per adult for a one way trip a few suburbs down to Tsim Sha Tsui and came out on Nathan road.

They say that Tsim Sha Tsui is the baby brother of HK Island proper. I would venture to add that it is the richer older cousin of Sham Shui Po. But for all the chinese signs (they are even groovier at night - look on google maps at the pictures), you could be in the middle of Sydney or Melbourne. In a way, it is quite stale - just another westernised city, not a lot of character. It is nice, very elegant, but not very Chinese.

But the shops - my goodness, it is massive. And everything is the best designer labels. The authentic ones I mean, not the knock-offs (more on that later). We ventured (more default, than anything) to Harbour City - a 500 shop mall, only about 7 stories and it was nothing but designer stuff. Very expensive (same as Australian prices for the same brands), but very opulent. It was really a very beautiful, sophisticated complex. But as with everything HK, most of the stuff wasn't going until after 12 midday. So we stopped into authentic starbucks for coffee. I knew I wouldn't get a brilliant coffee in HK, and this was the best, which is a comment in itself. The fact that 2 coffees and a lemonade cost HK$2 more than our entire meal on sunday, is yet another pre-drawn conclusion.

We decided after window shopping for a fair bit, to go to "outback steakhouse", which is an Australian themed restaurant. I thought Jovia would like a break from Asian food (speaking of which, I've wanted to try Shanghainese food and Chinese BBQ, which I haven't yet, plus Dim Sum are still on the menu). It was nice, though without the boomerangs, it could have been an American steakhouse. Not much to say - though my hickory riblets were nice.

We decided to go along the Park Lane Shopper's boulevard and head back towards Jordan/Yau Ma Tei, so we could look at temple street night markets. There were some nice shops there, but we ended up having sore feet, so sat down for half an hour. This should have been a clue - we had done too much to actually make a decent market trip an option.

We got down to toward Temple street (night markets open at 4pm, but don't get going until sundown) - see the 1st picture and started having a look.

We'd made our first purchase (a genuine copy D&G leather handbag (the leather was real, the D&G obviously wasn't) which Jovia bargained down to about $10 AU), when the heavens opened up. Basically, just insert typical tropical sudden Brisbane pee-down of rain, and you have it. You know - the kind of rain that makes everything even steamier, so that you don't know if you are wet from the rain or from your own sweat.

That made things considerably harder. Plus we were had it, because we had bitten off more that we can chew (i.e. the markets should be a trip in its own right). Tempers started to fray a little, but we made a few purchases, though we didn't get through all the markets in detail. 1. Because the rain made it harder to and 2. We were just too had it.

So we stopped into Yakinoyza (or something) - a chain of Japanese style ramen/rice shops. There is one at golden dragon here as well. It was okay, but nothing to write home about - the Japanese food we had on Sunday was supremely better. Having said that, we all ate and drank pepsi/lemonade for the sum total of $88 HK (about $16-$17 AUD).

We caught a taxi home (cost around $9 AU), which made it a bit more bearable. 7-Eleven was over the road, so picked up some more water and Munchenal (second picture), before getting into the taxi. The third picture I saw when we waited (about 2 minutes) for a taxi, and thought it was funny).

We realised that we 1. Have to go back to those markets and 2. Can't do markets after a day of wandering - they have to be done in their own right.

Another lesson learned.

I got back and had the Munchenal pictured. It is easy to eat and drink, if you stick to local fare and chain stores - but it costs a lot more for restaurant quality (Australian restaurants, I mean - anything that you can sit down at & eat is called a restaurant here). There isn't a huge drinking culture here, which I think explains the ease of availablility for beer. I think that you wouldn't have it in Australia (7-eleven I mean, I'd still have it at supermarkets - maybe, unless they monopolised it, like they have with fuel) - our rules pretty well suit the issues we have. No-one drinks much here, so no need to over-regulate it.

Caught the blog up last night, and went to sleep.

Beds are very very firm. But we seem to sleep well and have no bed-induced back pain. However the walking is hard on feet and backs.

Sham Shui Po Sunday

Okey dokey - relatively cruisy day was sunday, which (fortuitous or otherwise) gives me the opportunity to think and put my thoughts onto electronic fora.

Sham Shui Po, like I said, is a relatively poorish built up area. Having said that, never, either day or night have we felt unsafe and the locals, English impaired as they are, are very friendly, and extremely fascinated by our kids. Olivia is lapping up the attention, and between Olivia's 100mph mouth in English, the locals 100mph mouths in Cantonese, and many gestures, there have been some amusing conversations to observe.

The locals are amused by Liv's absolute gregariousness, and Sonali's very typical blonde/blue and Esther is just Es' - an Anglo baby who smiles is cute in anyone's culture.

This area is grubby, grungy, but I'm not saying that in a hypercritical sense, nor am I saying it is 3rd world. Yes the outside of the buildings (observe photo one) are grubby, but everyone has at least two or more air-cons and all people live relatively well. I say it in 2 senses - 1. as an antithesis to Jesus' comment about the cup that is clean on the outside and unwashed in the middle (i.e. they are not concerned about the outside, so long as the inside is adequate), and 2. These people live outside - at the shops, eating (apparently HK'ers eat out over 300 days a year), talking, selling, playing Mahjongg.

For all its alleged issues (and I say alleged in the sense of perception being a judge and that one cannot make anything but a subjective analysis of these things), I would thoroughly recommend staying here - not just cost-wise, but you see "real" Hong Kong. It is easy to stay in 5 star, in the best suburb and say "yes, it's a nice place, I ate asian food, I'm well travelled, yada yada yada", but here, we've experienced how locals live.

The kids have had more people say hello, ask how old they are and just been human beings to them, than they have ever. And there is a little man about a street up from us (who sells cleaning products which spill out on the streets) who now recognises us, and demurely (he isn't a gregarious Chinaman) says hello, waves and just plain old fashioned acknowleges that he recognises us.

The flip side is, that sometimes, yes it does wear thin seeing the puzzled looks, pointed fingers and the like at the "foreigners". When nerves are frayed, being anything more than polite can be difficult. After a while saying "hai, sei, saam, yat" (yes, 4,3 and 1), does grate, when nerves are frayed.

Okey dokey. 270 degrees - to the west (from loungeroom) is the water, some rigs in the water, lots of lights, etc. To the east (kitchen, Esther's room, bathroom) is Kwelin Street and Shim Shui Po (the pictures I've posted), and from our bedroom/Liv & Dahli's room is North, which has more high rises that are something you'd see in Brisbane or Sydney, rather than the more grubby looking buildings to the West.

We gave the kids cereal for breakfast on Sunday, but Jovia was not feeling like bowl noodles from the supermarket, so we decided to head out for brunch around 10am. The issue is, that nothing in Hong Kong really gets going until around 11-11:30am. This has wreaked havoc with our sleeping patterns, because Jovia and I generally go to sleep around 10-11pm and wake up around 6-7am, with the kids waking up at a similar time, albeit an earlier bed time.

So, probably clinging to familiarity more than anything else, we went back to the Dragon Centre. We found a place open at around 10:30am (serving their breakfast set) on (I think) the 6th floor. We got the kids a sandwich, had a bowl of noodle, stewed pork and vegetable combo (a bit like a soup base - much the same as the Japanese have with Ramen) each, and two iced teas (green tea is a freebie) and paid less than $14 AU. Another advantage in being in the "less affluent" area. The litmus test for the quantity (quality wise it was beautiful - literally the best iced tea I've ever had and the noodles/pork/veges were yum), was that I ate and didn't want to eat until dinner, Jovia ate, fed the kids her surplus and still had some surplus and was full until dinner (as were the kids) and the kids (despite having cereal) ate, and were full until dinner. Jovia took a photo of the bowl, just to say "heck this was a great, big meal".

Came back via 7-Eleven (there is one on every street corner and they are all owned by Asians, just like Oz). At 7-Eleven here, we pay $24 HK (around $4.30 AU) for 2 bottles of coke and 2 bottles (700 ml) of water. Replace coke with beer (German Munchenal seems to be my drop of choice) and the price is much similar (beer - $2 for 500ml of German beer). Suffice to say, we live on (in this order) water, beer and coke (lemon for me).

We bludged, but ducked out back to the Golden dragon centre (via a long route on Lai Chi Kok Rd and Shek Kip Mei St, back along Yu Chau St - looking for a restaurant labelled on our photocopy map from the hotel staff) to find a feed. Stumbled across this Japanese restaurant, where we ordered Kimchi & beef rice meal for me, deep fried chicken wings, some pastry like flat spring rolls filled with seaweed, mushroom and (dog-haha) meat, a full bowl of beef (sans Kimchi) and rice for the kids (one bowl fed the two piggies), beef ramen for Jovia, beer (Asahi superdry), drinks etc - all for about $40 AU. We were as full as googs. And a beautiful feed (I cleaned up the kids and Jovia's leftovers).

Back via 7-Eleven (for some more Munchenal and water) and sleepy byes. The TV here is okay, as we get a couple of channels (like Discovery travel) from Fox. All the subtitles are in Chinese Traditional, which is amusing. We did kinda plan today (monday), but not really.

More on that to come (if I can stay awake - need to take a trip to 7-Eleven ;D )

Saturday Part II - onto New Kowloon

My apologies for not finishing the catch up, though I'm pretty close.

I think the other thing about playing catch up, is that what I write about two days ago is in retrospect (Es, lay down and sleep darl'), so reflects what I'm getting used to. Plus it also reflects the mood I'm currently in (and let's be honest, what mood Jovia is in, since that has a significant bearing on my mood), not what I felt at the time.

But I'll try to spare as much of the introspection as is possible - sorry, I live in this brain, I apologise in advance.

I said to Jovia at Disneyland/Hollywood Hotel (yes, Steven, it is tacky and somewhat overpriced, but not as bad as Seaworld - and you need to experience what has been a pop-culture phenomenon, at least once - plus it was really beautiful, in its own pop-cultural way) - that being in Disneyland and the Hotel was easing us into Hong Kong, but that getting out of it and into Hong Kong proper would be a culture shock.

Prediction 2 correct - check!

We are staying in a suburb called Sham Shui Po - it is in an area called New Kowloon, which is technically part of the New Territories (which the British leased from the Chinese in 1898, rather than won in a peace treaty from the opium wars), but tends to have a Kowloon feel about it.

To be brutally honest, it is probably one of the poorest built up areas in Hong Kong. We arrived at our hotel room, feeling like we had been hit in the face. The room we are staying in is clean, but basic - much like comparing Bayview Terrace with our current house (though I have to say that at least this place doesn't have chipped paint in every room). Having said that, we are paying $2400 Oz for a 3 bedroom suite, with a decent size fridge, hot water and air-con in every room. Plus it is on the 25th floor, and so enjoys a 270 degree view, dependant on room.

Jovia was a little overwhelmed, as was I to a lesser extent - I think I was upset, because I take a personal responsibility for the happiness of my family. But we've settled in nicely. btw - the Taxi (all Toyota Crown Comforts - they look like they were styled in the early 90's but I think that is the more conservative Asian countries' styling - as they are nice and new inside) cost us around $38 from Disneyland to here, over several suspension bridges (fascinating engineering feat) and a toll booth.

The hotel staff (who all speak English, unlike a lot of local people here), gave us a photocopied map with a lot of locations here (you know, shopping centres, restaurants, dim sum, post office, etc) written on it in English. As this is just one street beyond all the maps we have, it is brilliant. The fact that it has given us a very good overview of the area was incredible. I should frame it - yes it is really that good.

We basically ducked out to the Dragon Centre shopping mall (more on that for Sunday's post), to go to the Wellcome supermarket (sic). We picked up some cereral, milk (Pauls UHT made in Oz - at $3 AU a litre, a little expensive), beer (Tsintao Draft - $1.20 AU per bottle for 2x 640ml bottles - yes beer (and coke) is cheaper than milk), noodles, air freshener (this room was stuffy smelling, not yukky smelling), dishwashing detergent, etc etc etc.

We came back shattered. Why? Plane trip with 3 kids for 9 hours, plus two days at Disneyland in high humidity, walking constantly (and Mickey's amorous overtures to my hip-pocket (or hip?)) and then whack!!! culture shock.

Plus Mine and Jovia's personality quirks re change - I like experiencing new things, but don't deal with lack of routine very well, Jovia likes her change in increments, but doesn't mind lack of routine - in that instance, we aren't a good fit, as we do exacerbate each others' respective quirks.

Each kid adds triple the stress per kid, compounding. Mum will explain it the best (hi Ma, miss you, love you - hope you are reading!) - goodness knows how the hell she managed anything with one of her and counteracting such a negative influence still floors me.

We went to bed, with the decision that Sunday would be a relatively cruisy day. Just to recover.

Shattered is an understatment. Seriously.

Disneyland Day 2.... (i.e. Saturday part 1).

Saturday was Day 2 at Disneyland.

We packed up our stuff and checked out of the hotel. The porters come and get our bags and we could have them in storage whilst we were in the park. The bus takes you to the park.

Sonali mustn't have had much sleep, because she was intermittently difficult during the day.

The big highlight for the girls was having their photos with the princesses - of which the park took some and we did (and our photos were the only ones where Sonali was attempting to smile). Olivia was very outgoing and had a good morning (behaviour went downhill in the afternoon), and enjoyed herself.

We went to the fantasy gardens, but apart from Marie the kitten, sonali screamed at Pooh, Goofy, Pluto, Mickey Mouse - basically every character that looked at her. The landscaping was impressive and Olivia had photos with all the characters that were there.

We also did tomorrowland, which was fun enough - a couple of rides and we poked around the shops. But it was the smallest of the lands, so not much to write about. When you see all the pictures, they will tell you the most.

We went back to Main Street and poked around all the shops and bought stuff for the girls, and a souvenir for the kids in the congregation (Jovia's idea, not mine) and stuff for Whitney, as per her request.

I felt like Mickey had personally come over and sodomised me, by the time we'd finished shopping. Thank goodness for the VISA debit and a favourable exhange rate.

Friday - Disnepland Day 1

I said to Jovia before we left that Sonali in particular, would stick out like a sore thumb. I was pretty spot on!

The overwhelming thing about the day was the heat (think walking around in Brisbane December heat - humid, hot, sapping) and the fact that everyone was pointing and giggling about Sonali, and we had that many requests to take her photo, so we will end up in some Asian happy snaps. It was funny that we weren't the only westerners there, but we got a fair amount of attention. Sonali's blonde n' blue combo was the catalyst, but Olivia was her usual outgoing self, and that was a big thing.

Disneyland (does anyone else reckon that Disney's signature looks like disnep?), was fun. It was spread out and certainly not a place you'd go to for rides (much like seaworld). It wasn't cheap, certainly by Hong Kong Standards, but not worse than any other theme park.

It is divided into 4 lands - Fantasyland (princesses, alice in wonderland, dumbo - basically all the old disney cartoons), Adventureland (we spent no time there, because all the rides were too scary for the kids - mainly visual things), Tomorrowland (buzz lightyear, lilo & stitch) and Main Street USA, which was turn of the century colonial and actually really good looking and impressive - it was mainly the shops and parades and stuff.

The photo is us in with the Fantasyland castle in the distance - again, very impressive. Disneyland is the kind of place you go to see and experience (and buy souvenirs), so worth it in that regard, but once you went through the park, there would be nothing that you'd need to particularly return for. Thank goodness it takes two days to get through the park, at our pace (and that the second day's ticket was free). Maybe that is why the year pass is only HK$650 (which is around $120-$130, depending on the exchange rate).

The girls went on a couple of rides, we ate at the cafeteria in Fantasyland (the worst food in the park, but the most impressively decorated eating spot - Marble statues of cinderella, and old, solid wood chairs to mimic a medieval dining room). Again, everyone spoke English, and it was dead easy to get anything.

We spent most of our money on the first day on drinks - it was so humid, that we needed to continually replenish with water. Again, it comes in handy that every drinks vendor, toilet, shop, everything has antibacterial handwash to wash hands, and this has helped alleviate the obsessive worry of a mother. Somewhat.....

We stood in the street parade about 3:30pm for the waterfight, which cooled us down a bit - there are "dry spots" where you can stand to avoid getting wet, otherwise it is game on.

I forgot to mention there was a High School Musical show going around the park from Main Street USA through to the back entrance to Fantasy land and Tomorrowland. The fact that it was so campy/funny, made up for the fact that I have a one-eyed hatred for High School Musical. Think of sClub7 meets one of Whitney's K-pop boy bands, and then the camp level upped a whole heap.

Had dinner at the hotel, with a draught carlsberg costing $8!!!! I was ropeable, but Jovia said "it's the last day" - I'd basically been dry, because I had no way of obtaining alcohol. The dinner wasn't bad, really light and healthy.

Got the girls Minnie ears and had their names embroidered for $10 each (ears and embroidery). Collected another 200 stickers from the staff and was pointed at.

Went for a swim, which was really nice, and they have this beach towel dispenser, where you get hot beach towels (and there was a disposal unit next to it). There were a few yanks in the complex, some nice, some - well - typical yanks really. Goofy came for a swim with the kids.

Crashed, with the plane trip and no recovery and Disneyland, we were exhausted and our body clocks were still trying to wake us early. And the kids.

Again, recommend the hotel for families with kids, and even singles should do it, just for the experience.

Thursday Flight and arrival at Disneyland.

Hi to all. My apologies for not actually doing anything on this, as I've had no working internet connection (and wasn't going to pay $22 AU a day for internet at Disneyland).

So this is the update - number 1.

The flight - surprisingly good. My client's missus had us looked after (wasn't enough room in biz class for us). The kids were great. Esther was a bit hyper, but not too major. We took a video of her standing in the "cot" on the plane, being a clown and amusing the hell out of everyone who was sitting behind us. But no picture, hence none here. Liv and Sonali were great, both had no freakouts on the plane. I got free drinks and they gave us a bottle of reisling (as the biz classers had slaughtered the bubbles). The kids got special meals with their own names on it, which was nice.

I listened to Jovia who listened to mum about getting money at the airport. Thank goodness my westpac card decided to be difficult, because it would have cost me some serious money. I was getting HK$5.3 per $1AUD at the airport, and $5.9 via the VISA debit and at the regular exchanges. That means that everything at the airport is poor value (especially the food).

Got into HK Airport at 6pm HK time. We were shattered. And hauling 2 trollyloads and a pram didn't help the cause and my nerves were a bit frayed. Customs in HK was a piece of cake - which bothered me, since getting out of Brisbane was harder than getting into HK. I kinda like that extra security. We had to sign a health declaration regarding swine flu (both at the airport and at Disney). They are really particular about it here. There are alcohol handwash dispensers everywhere - everywhere to eat, outside every toilet, in every train station, public place. It is actually really good - they are taking it seriously - ads on telly, announcements at the train stations etc.

Got into Disneyland hotel via taxi from the airport. It is on Lantau island, which is basically a tropical island covered in trees and the only buildings on it relate to disneyland. Our asthma got really bad there. We thought it was the pollution (there is a permanent haze here), but it wasn't - just the tropics - much like Cairns.

Disneyland Hollywood Hotel is amazing - it was absolutely beautiful. It was fitted out as a combination of 1920's Hollywood TCM style, cross 50's diner, with 60's music and stuff playing. The staff and service were impeccable and it was clean as clean could be. Definately a place for families to stay (should they afford it).

It has souvenir shops that are sometimes cheaper than the ones at Disneyland proper.

Everyone speaks good English and everything is written bilingually (as it is in most of HK, except for handwritten signs of course). It was very sanitised, as I had assumed it would be. There were plenty of Westerners staying there and at the Park. The staff give out stickers all the time and loved the kids. We have several hundred disneyland and disney stickers.

The pool is beautiful and apparently there was a swim up bar, though we didn't read the guide well enough. My only gripe was that there was no choice for eating - you had the hotel restaurants, or a fair walk to the jetty and a ferry ride to another part of HK to find something. The food was okay, it wasn't excellent, but it was adequate. It was, however, quite pricey. We paid $116 for the buffet, but having said that, we were so had it, that the "no brainer" aspect of it was great. And it had a very good range of food - very good range. Probably the biggest buffet I have seen.

We went to bed at 9:30, which of course is actually 11:30 our time, so a big day.